A city of churches
By 1614 Nagasaki had about fifteen churches and chapels, most of them built by the Jesuits.Almost all were new buildings, unlike most churches elsewhere in Japan, which were private houses or former temples.Around 1606 the town had, besides the college church and three chapels, five parish churches served by Japanese priests, and a church each for the Augustinians, Dominicans and Franciscans.No floor plans or drawings of any of them have been found, and the only pictures are on folding screens.Between 1614 and 1620 all of them were pulled down.
The Assumption at Morisaki
The great Jesuit church stood on the Morisaki point beside the Jesuit house, and over four decades it was enlarged four or five times into the largest church of premodern Japan.On Hideyoshi's order Terazawa Hirotaka dismantled it in 1592 and sent the timber to Nagoya, but the next year the ruler allowed it to be rebuilt.A new church, begun on March 25, 1601, was dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady on October 21, the feast of the Eleven Thousand Virgins.From 1603 its bell tower held a clock by Fr Giovanni Nicolao that showed the time and date in both Western and Chinese reckoning.In November 1614 it was the first church to fall, hacked with saws and axes, pulled down with ropes and burnt.
Todos os Santos
Todos os Santos (All Saints), at Sakurababa just outside the city, had stood since 1568.It was the only one of the main churches that was not a new building.It survived 1614 and was destroyed in the second wave.
The Misericórdia
The church of the Misericórdia brotherhood, dedicated to Santa Isabel, stood in Hakata-machi from 1583.It was the only church left standing in 1614.When it too was destroyed, with seven houses used as hospitals, the brotherhood's members took 400 homeless poor and sick into their own homes.
Santa Maria
Santa Maria, dedicated to Our Lady, was finished in 1612, and by 1614 a parish called Santa Maria del Monte had its own diocesan pastor.Soldiers began pulling the church down on November 5, 1614.
São João Baptista
São João Baptista, in Chikugo-machi, was finished in 1612 and was linked with the São Lázaro hospital.In late October 1614 soldiers from Ōmura were lodged in it, and they then pulled it down.In 1620 the Nichiren temple Honrenji opened on its site.
Santiago
Santiago began in 1603 as a hospital church and became a Jesuit parish in 1606 under Fr Rui Gomes.The small church stood in Sakaya-machi and was razed in a single day on November 15, 1614.Its bell survives at the Hachimangū of Takeda City in Ōita.
San Antonio
San Antonio was built in 1607 by the daikan Murayama Tōan, with a small cemetery beside it, and given as a parish to his son Fr Francisco Murayama.It came down in the second week of November 1614.
San Pedro
San Pedro, in Ima-machi, was founded between 1609 and 1611 by a rich man, probably Murayama Tōan, who endowed a stipend for its Japanese priest, Fr Lorenzo de la Cruz.Bishop Cerqueira counted it among the finest churches in Japan.Soldiers began pulling it down on November 12, 1614.
Santo Domingo
The Dominican church of Santo Domingo stood in Katsuyama-machi and was pulled down in November 1614.Like the sites of the other friars' churches, its land was handed to a few Christians, to be given back if the missionaries returned.
San Francisco
The Franciscans first had a small wooden chapel, Our Lady of the Angels, built in 1595 in the old town cemetery of Cruz-machi, where Nagasaki City Hall stands today.Their friary followed in 1608, on land bought for them by the Spanish merchant José de Aduna after Murayama Tōan won leave from Ieyasu.The stone church of San Francisco, rebuilt in Cruz-machi, was decorated in the Spanish style and had a small free hospital beside it.On November 17, 1614, the new church, still unfinished, collapsed on the soldiers pulling it down and killed a number of them.
San Agustín
San Agustín was founded in 1611 by the Augustinian Fr Hernando Ayala, and its friary opened in 1612.Bishop Cerqueira gave it a parish that ran east from the friary to the river.It fell in November 1614.
San Lorenzo
San Lorenzo was built by Korean Christians in 1610.It stood on the outskirts of the city and survived until the second wave.
San Miguel
San Miguel stood near Rokasu-machi, outside the inner town.It too survived 1614 and was destroyed in the second wave.
Santa Clara
Santa Clara stood in Urakami, outside the city, and was destroyed with the last churches.In 1865 the Christians there still remembered it and came at night to pray among its few remaining stones.
How the churches fell
In early November 1614 the governor ordered the street heads of Nagasaki to pull down the churches, but they answered that the townspeople were too tired and poor.Soldiers from Saga, Hirado, Arima, Ōmura and other domains did the work, guarded by 500 musketeers from Kokura, and nine churches with bell towers and clocks fell in fourteen days.Afterwards Christians went to the empty sites to pray and weep, showing most reverence where the Blessed Sacrament had been kept.A second wave, begun by the governor Hasegawa Gonroku, destroyed everything that was left.The church sites and graveyards became streets, the bones of the dead were dug up, and Buddhist temples rose on some of the sites.In 1864 old men could still show the French priest Petitjean where two of the old churches had stood.
What is uncertain
Where the sources disagree
- How many churches there were. five in 1597 according to Ribadeneira, about fifteen by 1614 according to Vieira and Hesselink, and "10 or 12" parish churches besides monasteries according to Richard Cocks in 1620.
- The year the Assumption church was dedicated. 1601 in Solier, 1602 in Pagès.
- The demolition dates of November 1614. readings of Ávila Girón differ between Vieira, Tronu and Hesselink (for example, San Antonio on November 9 or 11, San Pedro and Santo Domingo on November 10 or 12); Ávila Girón names eight churches but says nine fell.
- When San Francisco was finished. 1609 (Willeke), 1611 (Kataoka), or never (Pacheco).
- How many died when San Francisco collapsed. ten according to Fr Diego de San Francisco, many according to Ávila Girón, who says the deaths were hidden.
- Where San Antonio stood. Moto-daiku-machi according to Tronu, Furukawa-machi according to Roggendorf's list of 1614 parishes.
- Whether Santa Maria (Cerqueira, 1612) and Santa Maria del Monte (1614) are the same church.
- Where Cruz-machi lay. Anesaki equates it with today's Rokasu-machi, Hesselink places San Francisco in today's Sakura-machi, and the first Franciscan chapel is placed at the site of Nagasaki City Hall.
- When the second wave began. late 1619 according to Tronu, 1620 in the letter of Fr Mateus de Couros and in Cocks.
- Later Tokugawa sources name the wrong men as burners of the churches, so Hesselink treats them as unreliable.
- Who carried the Santiago bell to Ōita is not known; Hesselink doubts the usual suggestion.
- Hesselink calls the great church "Our Lady of Ascension", a slip for the Assumption.