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Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church

Xavier came to Yamaguchi twice. The first time, in a shabby coat, he was sent away. The second time he came dressed as an envoy, with a clock that struck the hours. What changed, and why are two white bell towers standing on a hill in the city today?

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Yamaguchi is where Xavier learned. He failed, changed his manner and his words, and was given an empty temple that became a church. The Christians he left behind were scattered and martyred, and a blind singer kept them together.

The modern Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church with two tall bell towers
The modern Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church with two tall bell towers.Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church. Wiki708, CC BY-SA 3.0. Commons

In 60 seconds

The place in 9 steps. Each line is footnoted.

  1. Nov 1550Xavier reaches Yamaguchi; the lord Ōuchi Yoshitaka sends him away.
  2. Apr 1551Xavier returns as an envoy, with thirteen gifts; Yoshitaka allows him to preach and gives him the empty temple Daidōji.
  3. 1551About five hundred people are baptised in two months.
  4. 1557The Mōri attack the Ōuchi; the town and Daidōji burn.
  5. 19 Aug 1605The blind catechist Damian is beheaded in Yamaguchi.
  6. 1893Father Villion finds the site of Daidōji.
  7. 1952The Xavier Memorial Church is dedicated for the 400th anniversary of his coming.
  8. 5 Sep 1991The church burns.
  9. 29 Apr 1998The present church is dedicated.

The clock and the spectacles

In early November 1550 Xavier reached Yamaguchi, the rich seat of . He asked to see the lord, and the audience went badly. The parish history says that the shabbily dressed Xavier angered Yoshitaka with his teaching and was sent away in the middle of it. Schurhammer adds that the lord was offended when Xavier's companion read out a passage condemning sodomy.

Xavier walked on to Kyoto and found the city in ruins. In April 1551 he came back to Yamaguchi. This time he came in good clothes, as an envoy, with letters from Goa and thirteen gifts. Schurhammer's list includes a clock that struck the hours, a pair of spectacles, a mirror, Portuguese wine, pictures and books. The parish gives a longer list that it says has been handed down, including a music box, a gun and a telescope.

The Jesuit historian John Laures, writing for the four hundredth anniversary, counts the same thirteen gifts: an ornamented clock, a music box, a finely made rifle with three barrels, spectacles, a mirror, gold brocade and other cloth, Portuguese wine, tea cups, books and pictures. The lord offered gold and silver in return. Xavier took none of it, and asked only for leave to preach. Official notices went up in the streets saying the lord was glad to have the Law of God taught, that anyone might accept it, and that whoever harmed the preachers would be punished.

Yoshitaka was pleased. He gave written leave to preach and handed the party a temple that had fallen empty, . The parish calls it the first permanent church in Japan, and says Yamaguchi was where Christmas was first kept in Japan.

Sources: the clock and the spectacles

The Jesuit letters, as told by Schurhammer, and the history published by the Yamaguchi parish.

On the mapTwo audiences
Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church, Xavier Memorial Park. Full atlas and pin sources

Deus, not Dainichi

In Yamaguchi Xavier also changed his word for God. At Kagoshima his interpreter had used , the cosmic Buddha of the Shingon school. Once Xavier understood what that meant, he went through the streets with Brother Juan Fernández crying "Do not pray to Dainichi!", and from then on used the Latin Deus. In two months about five hundred people were baptised; the town then had about 50,000 people. Laures tells how crowds came to the house from morning to night, first asking about the shape of the earth, comets, thunder and rain, and then about God; Xavier wrote that it was "something almost incredible to hear the Law of God discussed in almost all the houses in such a large city". Father Cosme de Torres, Xavier's fellow worker, believed that most of these Christians "would be ready to suffer any hardship rather than give up their faith". One was a half-blind wandering singer, baptised , who became one of the great Japanese preachers of the mission.

On the mapThe road to Kyoto
Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church, Kyoto, St Francis Xavier Memorial Church. Full atlas and pin sources
1557 to 1605

Damian

After Xavier left, the missionaries stayed. In 1557 the Mōri attacked the Ōuchi, the town was burned and Daidōji with it. The land was given back to the priests in 1586, but the next year Hideyoshi expelled the missionaries and the Jesuits left for Hirado.

Then a blind man held the church together. was born in Sakai around 1560 and travelled as a , a blind lute player, before settling in Yamaguchi, where he was baptised at 25. With no priest he visited the believers, baptised children and led funerals.

In 1605 the lord Mōri Terumoto moved against the Christian leaders. On 16 August the samurai Melchior Motonao was executed at Hagi. On the night of the 19th Mōri's officials told Damian to come with them to Yuda on business. On the way he stopped and said this was not the road to Yuda but to the execution ground, and that for a blind man the road was bright even at night. He knelt and prayed, and was beheaded at the Ippon-matsu execution ground. His relics went to Macao in 1614 and came back to Japan in 1995. He was beatified in Nagasaki on 24 November 2008, number 13 on the bishops' list of the 188 martyrs.

1952 to today

Two white towers

After the ban the Paris missionaries came to Yamaguchi, and in 1893 Father found the site of Daidōji, marked on an old map he found in the backing paper of sliding doors. The site is now Xavier Memorial Park, with a monument.

The Jesuits bought the land on Kameyama hill in July 1948, and on the 400th anniversary of Xavier's coming, in October 1952, the Xavier Memorial Church was dedicated. On the night of 5 September 1991 it burned. The present church, with its two white bell towers, was dedicated on 29 April 1998. In August 2007 a monument to Damian was set up in front of it.

On the mapDamian and Kumagai
Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial Church, Hagi Kirishitan Martyrs Memorial Park. Full atlas and pin sources
Timeline

The dated story

Every dated event on this page, with its sources. Filter by section.

  1. Nov 1550Xavier reaches Yamaguchi; first audience fails
  2. Jan 1551Xavier in Kyoto
  3. Apr 1551Second audience; Daidōji given
  4. 1557Town and Daidōji burned
  5. 1586Daidōji land returned to the priests
  6. 1587Expulsion edict; Jesuits leave for Hirado
  7. 16 Aug 1605Melchior Kumagai executed at Hagi
  8. 19 Aug 1605Damian beheaded in Yamaguchi
  9. 1888Father Compagnon comes to Yamaguchi
  10. 1893Villion finds the Daidōji site
  11. Jul 1948Kameyama land bought
  12. Oct 1952Xavier Memorial Church dedicated
  13. 5 Sep 1991Church burns
  14. 1995Damian's relics return to Japan
  15. 29 Apr 1998Present church dedicated
  16. Aug 2007Damian monument set up
  17. 24 Nov 2008Damian beatified
Atlas

Where it happened

Each pin is a place named on this page. Coordinates come from official prefecture maps, OpenStreetMap or Wikidata, as listed. Rows marked "not yet pinned" have no verified pin.

This placeRelated site
PlaceWhy it matters hereCoordinatesCoordinate source
Yamaguchi Xavier Memorial ChurchThe church of 1998 on Kameyama34.1789852, 131.4731088OpenStreetMap way/516319312
Xavier Memorial ParkSite of Daidōji, found by Villion in 189334.186408, 131.4859329OpenStreetMap way/1303500793
Hagi Kirishitan Martyrs Memorial ParkHagi, where Kumagai died34.415695, 131.378204GSI address search, block level
KyotoXavier's journey of 155135.01161, 135.76811Wikidata Q34600, city centre
St Francis Xavier Memorial Church, HiradoWhere Xavier came from33.3696232, 129.5495894OpenStreetMap way/787827963
Ippon-matsu execution groundWhere Damian diedlocation not separately pinnednot yet pinned
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Words on this page

Dainichi 大日
The cosmic Buddha of the Shingon school, Xavier's first word for God.
biwa hōshi 琵琶法師
A blind travelling singer who played the lute.
Sources

Footnotes

Translations from Japanese sources are ours.

  1. Catholic Yamaguchi Church (Xavier Memorial Church), "教会紹介" (history, access, hours, fees), source link (checked 19 Oct 2026)
  2. Laudate (Daughters of St Paul), キリシタンゆかりの地をたずねて, "山口サビエル記念聖堂" (21 Jul 2011), source link
  3. Catholic Bishops' Conference of Japan, "萩・山口の殉教者," source link
  4. Georg Schurhammer SJ, *St. Francis Xavier, the Apostle of India and Japan*, trans. F. J. Eble (St. Louis: Herder, 1928), chapter "In Yamaguchi,""Francis Xavier: Two Years in Japan".
  5. Nagasaki Prefecture tourism (ながさき旅ネット), "教会見学時マナーのご案内," source link
  6. Johannes (John) Laures SJ, *St. Francis Xavier at Yamaguchi* (1949; CiNii BA22386958), reproduced from the Xavier Memorial Church booklet (2001) on Francis Britto's Brittonia site, Sophia University (Wayback Machine copy of 16 Oct 2016)
  7. Catholic Bishops' Conference of Japan, 「日本188殉教者名簿」 (27 Aug 2007), no. 13 Damian, source link (checked 20 Oct 2026)
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